Why Won't My EV Charge? Complete Troubleshooting Guide
Why Won't My EV Charge? Complete Troubleshooting Guide
Is the problem the car or the charger?
| Check | If it works | If it doesn't |
|---|---|---|
| Try a different charge point (public charger, or a friend's home charger) | Your charger or its installation is the likely cause | The fault is more likely with your vehicle |
| Try a different EV on your home charger (if possible) | Your vehicle is the likely cause | Your charger is the likely cause |
Step-by-step troubleshooting
Check the cable is fully inserted
Both ends need to be pushed in fully and locked — most Type 2 connectors won't begin charging unless they're securely latched. On chargers with a motor-locking socket, the locking mechanism can occasionally engage before the plug is fully seated, leaving it protruding by just 1-2mm. This is easy to miss by eye but is enough to prevent a solid connection. Pull the cable gently to confirm it's genuinely locked, not just resting in place, at both the charger and the vehicle.
Check the pins for damage or corrosion
Inspect the cable for visible damage, cracks, or exposed wiring along its full length, not just the connectors. On tethered cables especially, check the pins inside the vehicle-end connector for a blue-green corrosion (verdigris) build-up — this is a common cause of a poor or intermittent connection, particularly on chargers that live outdoors and see a lot of rain. Corroded pins won't necessarily stop the plug going in, but can prevent a reliable electrical connection once it's there.
Try a different charging cable
If your charger uses a separate (untethered) charging cable, try a different one if you have access to one — from a neighbour, another vehicle, or a public charger. This quickly narrows the fault down to the cable itself versus the charger or vehicle, and is one of the fastest checks you can do.
Check the charger lights
Most charge points use an LED to indicate status. A solid or flashing colour usually corresponds to a specific state — see the fault code table below. If the light is off entirely, check the isolator switch and consumer unit for a tripped breaker before assuming the charger itself has failed (see the next step for exactly what to look for).
Check the app
If your charger is app-connected, confirm it's showing as online and connected, not just powered on. A charger can have power but be unable to start a session if it's lost its network connection and is waiting for authorisation it can't receive.
Check your consumer unit and isolator switch
Confirm you haven't had a power cut, and check nothing has tripped in your consumer unit. Find the breaker or RCBO for your EV charger circuit — it's usually labelled "EV Charger" or "EV Charge Point" on the consumer unit door or the device itself.
Look for the switch labelled "EV Charger" (or similar) in your consumer unit. If it's tripped, the switch toggle usually sits in a middle position rather than fully up or fully down.
A typical modern consumer unit — each switch protects one circuit. Your EV charger should have its own dedicated, clearly labelled way.
If the switch feels loose, spongy, or "sticky" when you try to reset it — rather than moving with a firm, positive click — this can indicate the RCBO itself has failed internally and needs replacing, rather than there being a fault elsewhere on the circuit. Many RCBOs also have a small "Test" or "T" button, typically yellow: pressing this should trip the device immediately. If it doesn't trip when tested, or won't reset and hold afterwards, that points to a faulty protection device rather than a wiring fault.
Your installation may also have a separate rotary isolator switch near the charge point itself, in addition to the breaker in the consumer unit — both need to be in the "on" position for the charger to have power.
On a rotary isolator, the switch is normally "on" when the handle points down. If it's pointing up, sideways, or is in between, the charger is isolated and won't have power.
If you suspect a genuine RCBO or RCD fault based on the checks above, see our dedicated guide on why EV chargers trip, or browse replacement RCBOs and RCDs.
Check schedules and smart tariffs
Many EVs and chargers default to off-peak scheduled charging. If it's outside your scheduled window, the car may show as "connected" without actually drawing power. Check both the vehicle's own charging settings/app and the charger's app for an active schedule — these are separate systems and either one can be the cause.
If you're on a smart electricity tariff such as Octopus Intelligent, Octopus Go, or similar time-of-use tariffs, these often take control of when your car actually charges, restricting it to specific cheap-rate windows even if you plug in earlier and the car shows as connected. Check the tariff provider's app (not just your vehicle or charger app) for a scheduled or paused charging session — this is one of the most common reasons a car appears "connected but not charging."
Check battery state
Some vehicles pause or refuse to charge if the battery is already at or above a set charge limit, or occasionally if the battery management system has entered a protective state after extreme heat or cold. Check the vehicle's own charge limit setting.
Check the vehicle
Restart the car's infotainment/charging system if possible (consult your manual for the correct method), and check for any dashboard warning lights related to charging. A vehicle-side fault will usually also prevent charging on public chargers, which is why the car-vs-charger test above is a useful first step.
Listen for repeated clicking
A single click when charging starts or stops is normal — that's the contactor closing or opening. A repeated, rhythmic clicking that keeps happening rather than settling is different, and usually means the contactor/relay is repeatedly trying to make and break the connection rather than holding it closed.
This is most often caused by dynamic load balancing — a feature that reduces or pauses charging when your home's total electricity usage gets close to your supply's capacity. If the charger is right on the edge of what it thinks is available (for example, several other high-draw appliances running at once), it can end up rapidly starting and stopping as it tries to find a current level that doesn't trip anything. Check your charger's app for a load balancing or power management setting — it may need the sensitivity or threshold adjusted, or may be misreading your supply's actual capacity.
Repeated clicking can also indicate a failing contactor that's no longer making a clean connection even when it should. If adjusting the load balancing setting doesn't resolve it, or the clicking happens even when no other appliances are drawing power, this points to a hardware fault — see our contactors & relays guide for how these work, or browse replacement contactors.
Common fault code colours (general reference)
| LED colour/pattern | Usually means |
|---|---|
| Solid green / blue | Ready, no vehicle connected |
| Flashing green / blue | Charging in progress |
| Solid amber / orange | Connected but waiting (schedule, authorisation, or load management delay) |
| Flashing red | Fault condition — often a protection device (RCD/RCBO) trip or internal fault |
| No light at all | No power reaching the unit — check the isolator and consumer unit first |
Exact fault code meanings vary by manufacturer. Check your charger's own manual for the definitive fault code list — we've collected the manuals for our own product range on our Resources page.
When to call an electrician
If your charger is tripping repeatedly rather than simply failing to start, that's a distinct issue with its own causes — see our dedicated guide below.
RCD trips, PEN faults, and earth leakage explained, with a step-by-step diagnosis flow.
Read the tripping guide →Frequently Asked Questions
My EV charger has no lights at all — what does that mean?
This usually means no power is reaching the unit. Check the isolator switch near the charger and the relevant breaker in your consumer unit before assuming the charger itself has failed. If power is confirmed present at the consumer unit but the charger still shows no lights, the fault is likely internal and worth having checked by an electrician.
Why does my car show as "connected" but not charging?
This is most commonly caused by a scheduled charging setting on either the vehicle or the charger, or the vehicle's battery already being at its set charge limit. Check both the car's charging schedule and the charger's app before assuming there's a fault.
My charger works with my car but not my partner's — why?
This points to a vehicle-side cause rather than a charger fault, since the charger is clearly functioning correctly with at least one vehicle. Check the second vehicle's own charging settings, cable, and onboard charger for a fault.
Should I reset my EV charger if it stops working?
Many chargers can be power-cycled safely by switching off at the isolator, waiting around 30 seconds, and switching back on — check your charger's manual to confirm this is safe for your specific model. If the fault returns immediately after a reset, that points to a genuine fault rather than a temporary glitch, and it's worth getting it checked by an electrician.
My charger's breaker feels sticky or won't reset properly — what does that mean?
A breaker or RCBO that feels loose, spongy, or "sticky" rather than moving with a firm, positive click when you try to reset it can indicate the device has failed internally and needs replacing. This is different from a switch that resets cleanly but then trips again shortly after, which points more towards an ongoing fault elsewhere on the circuit rather than a failed device.
What does the "test" button on my RCBO do?
Most RCBOs have a small test button, usually marked "T" and often yellow, which simulates an earth fault and should trip the device immediately when pressed. This is a genuine functional test, not just a cosmetic switch. If pressing it doesn't cause the device to trip, or the device won't reset and hold afterwards, this indicates the protection device itself is faulty and should be replaced by an electrician.
Why won't my charging cable push in fully?
On chargers with a motor-locking socket, the locking mechanism can occasionally engage slightly before the plug is fully seated, leaving it protruding by 1-2mm — small enough to be easy to miss visually, but enough to prevent a solid electrical connection. Always confirm the cable is genuinely locked by gently pulling on it, rather than assuming it's connected because it looks close enough.
What is the blue/green residue on my charging cable's pins?
This is corrosion (verdigris), commonly seen on the pins of tethered cables that are regularly exposed to rain or damp conditions outdoors. It can build up gradually and create a poor or intermittent electrical connection even when the plug appears to insert normally. If you spot this, the cable should be inspected and likely replaced, since cleaning corroded pins is rarely a lasting fix.
Why does my EV charger keep making a clicking noise?
A single click at the start and end of a session is normal — this is the contactor opening or closing. Repeated, rhythmic clicking usually means the contactor is repeatedly trying to make and hold a connection, most commonly caused by dynamic load balancing reducing or pausing charging as your home's electricity usage fluctuates. Check your charger's app for a load balancing setting. If the clicking persists with no other appliances drawing power, this can indicate a failing contactor that needs replacing.
Further reading:
Why does my EV charger keep tripping?
EV charger repair & replacement parts
EVSE controllers (EPCs) explained
← Back to Resources
This guide provides general troubleshooting information. Any work involving your consumer unit, wiring, or the charger's internal components must be carried out by a qualified, registered electrician.